Eyes Wide Open: Let the Walls Speak

Visions of Israel Blog: Minneapolis Jewish Artists' Lab Israel Trip

During the Artists' Lab trip to Israel we are inviting our participants to write a blog entry.  We hope to capture the trip through many eyes.  

March 21, 2016 Blog and photos by Leslie Levine Adler

By dinnertime, everyone had taken their seat at the Hotel Ruth Daniel dining room for our first meal together, some straight from the airport and the rapid pace was set. The artists were delighted to be united with Anat, our one-time facilitator, after over a year’s absence.

Our first adventure was a nighttime walk on “the other side of the tracks” in the Florentine neighborhood of Jaffa, settled by Greek immigrants, many from Salonika who were recruited to build the new port north of Jaffa that would become the new port of Tel Aviv. The neighborhood is industrial, and a bit bohemian. With flashlights, we followed our guide Yigal and several cats through the narrow alleys to view the graffiti. Why at nighttime? The workshops pull their shutters down, and these become the canvas for the street artists. Yigal referred to it as “letting the walls speak.”

We learned that the graffiti movement gained momentum here after the assassination of Yitzhak Rabin. Graffiti now deals with political, social, and religious themes. Even some Orthodox artists are involved expressing ideas in painting that might be forbidden to talk about directly in their community. The number, variety and quality of the graffiti were stunning to us. In a memorable one, two ibexes lock horns in a battle, which Bernie Sanders would understand, between capitalist efforts to seize property and build and those who struggle to keep their homes.

These graffiti artists often pride themselves on remaining anonymous and representing a voice to counter the power of the marketing. “The street and the walls are their platform,” said Yigal. Much of the work exudes talent, spirit and hutzpah. Paint is very expensive and the best graffiti artists plan their efforts in advance and do their work quickly to avoid getting caught. It is subversive but tolerated in this neighborhood and, perhaps, now even a source of pride and identity.

We came home through the American colony settled by Christians from Maine who brought over a 150 year old wooden house. This was another reminder of the diversity of Tel Aviv/Jaffa.

Editor's Note:  In 2013 Adam Heffez visited the lab to talk about his book on graffiti art in Israel.  You can find the blog written on this lab and links to the art he referenced at Anonymous Words.

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Honoring the Objects:Finding the Story

March 22, 2016 Visions of Israel Blog-The Minneapolis Jewish Artists' Lab Israel Trip
During the Artists' Lab trip to Israel we are inviting our participants to write a blog entry. We hope to capture the trip through many eyes.

Blog by Lucy Rose Fischer

March 22 2016

We spent this morning with a remarkable couple. Lisa Gross is an artist who creates whimsical creatures using found objects. Her husband Bill Gross has an amazing collection of Judaica.

We visited Lisa’s studio early in the morning. It is located on a dusty street in Holon, a suburb of Tel Aviv. Not long ago, this city was just a few houses; now it is a major urban area—known especially as a city for children, with a children’s museum and many other activities designed for children. We first entered an outer room of her studio—it is filled with figures of all sorts and sizes—sheep, a cow, quasi-humans—all quite friendly and composed of various found materials.

Some of our group had seen Lisa’s work when she had an exhibit at the Sabes JCC in 2007. For others it was all new. For all of us, seeing the collections in her large studio was an amazing experience. She had pieces on the walls and on tables and suspended from the ceiling. She told us how she finds objects and they inspire her. She tends to walk with her head looking down, so she can spot interesting objects. Sometimes she uses natural objects as models, such as palm fronds, and creates molds. Her work is imaginative and delightful. For Lisa, “garbage” is an opportunity to create art.

Our next stop was their home, in a very beautiful neighborhood in Ramat Aviv, another Tel Aviv suburb. It’s hard to convey the scope of the Judaica collection that Bill Gross has collected. Three large glass cases encircle their large living room and other spaces are also filled with his collection. But what is really impressive is his knowledge about Judaica and the context of his collection. He has arranged his objects into 10 groups, corresponding to different cultural areas where Jews lived. He said that there is a myth that objects such as Hanukah menorahs were found in most private homes. But in fact most Jews were very poor. The silver items that we were viewing were used in synagogues and in the homes of the very, very wealthy. The Jews were even poorer than the non Jews where they lived because Jews were not allowed to own land or engage in most professions. They were limited to a very few occupations and therefore there was huge competition and most could barely scratch out a living. So, Jews in the Ukraine, for example, if they wanted to like Hanukah candles, would take a potato and make holes…

Bill also told us how the Judaica reflected the places and cultures where Jews lived. For example, an 1840 Hanukah menorah from Vienna is in the shape of a sofa, like the furniture that would have been in wealthy homes at that time. He showed us a menorah from Algeria from the early 20^th century that had a star and crescent.

After lunch at the Tel Aviv port, we began a tour of Bauhaus architecture in Tel Aviv. We began at Shalom Tour, viewing beautiful glass mosaics about the founding of Tel Aviv. The first Jewish neighborhood was Neve Tzedek where the architecture was more European, Mediterranean, with red tile roofs. The Bauhaus architecture was brought by German architects, who designed functional buildings that fit with the environment.

We saw the building where Ben Gurion declared the Independence of the state of Israel in 1948.

Editor's note -Susan Weinberg

Lucy was unable to join us for our evening activities and lest they go uncaptured I wanted to add a few remarks on them. Back when our theme in the Lab was Light, one of our lab members described a restaurant in Tel Aviv where the waiters were blind and customers ate in a totally dark environment. We were captivated by this idea and remembered it when we created our itinerary.

Have you ever imagined what it would be like to live without sight? How about without sight and hearing? One of the most unusual experiences that we have had in our visit to Israel was at the Nalaga'at Center. Nalaga'at means "Please Touch", a request that makes perfect sense when you learn about its history. The center was started by people with an unusual disease, Usher Syndrome. People with this disease are born deaf, but in their first decade typically lose their sight as well. When young they learn sign language and by touching the communicator as they sign they learn to read it even without the visual cues.

Today the center offers plays, education and a restaurant in which we are blinded by darkness. The waiters and actors are either deaf or visually impaired or some combination. We began our visit with a workshop led by two deaf people who taught us how to sign basic words, lip read and pantomime specific words. We ascribed names through gestures which expanded on some descriptor, either physical or perhaps based on personal likes. We learned that sign language reflects the culture out of which it comes. For example the sign for "food" in the United States is holding a hamburger, in Chinese sign language it is manipulating chopsticks.

Following our workshop we moved to the dinner portion of our evening. We selected our dinner before entering the dining room. I was careful not to select the fettuccine as I end up wearing it even with advantage of sight. We were also asked to put cellphones and other belongings in a locker prior to entering, lest we or the waiters trip over them. We entered the dining room in train fashion, our hands resting on the shoulders of one of our table mates. As we entered we joined a world of darkness that our waiters were far more adept at navigating. This was not a blackness to which one's eyes adjust, it was a velvety darkness that allowed no light to gain a foothold. I felt my stomach lurch as we entered and thought of those yoga balance poses that become infinitely more difficult if one closes one's eyes. I felt off balance.

We were guided to our table by our waiter. He then taught us how to pour water into our glass with our finger in the glass so we didn't overflow. I missed the glass anyway dampening the table, but I discovered an advantage in this world of darkness, no one could see it. We heard the jingle of bells approaching, signaling our waiter Mohammed nearby with our meals. There was no waiting until everyone was served as there was no way to determine that. My husband and I reached across the table identifying each other's location. That coveted taste of my husband's meal was going to be difficult. I'd be lucky if I found my own plate. The inability of others to see quickly eliminated any table manners. After a few empty forkfuls, I quickly developed a stabbing strategy with the objective of navigating food to mouth. It wasn't pretty, but then no one saw me. The food was actually quite flavorful, perhaps enhanced by a focusing of our senses. My special treat at the end was when my husband had the waiter bring some of my husband's leftover meal to me to taste. We left in train style, grateful for the anchor of the person in front, blinking as we moved back into light as we adjusted to the world of the sighted.

With New Eyes

March 23, 2016 by Lynn Lederman, photos by Toni Dachis

The sky was hazy as our bus left the Mediterranean and we began to climb. To many of us who had been here before, the road to Jerusalem had changed. Bedroom communities and construction cranes have replaced open green spaces.




Our group gathered in a sunny Jerusalem park overlooking the Old City to process what has already been a jam packed and thought provoking two days. Meryll shared a teaching from the Bava Mitziya about finding a blessing in that which had been hidden from our eyes.

We arrived at Kfuzot Hayer, a lane devoted to the arts, and split into two groups. Our group went with Rabbi Matt Berkowitz, (a former class mate of Rabbi Davis'). We learned about the amazing work he and David Moss are doing with Kol Haot.

Matt shared his seven year journey designing a very unique and visually pleasing three part Haggadah. The larger section contained beautifully designed prints, some with intricate paper cuts. Vibrant colors and 24 karat gold leaf adorned these stunning prints. The end papers were specially made with Israeli parsley and parsley fibers were in the paper.

The anthology also included 27 essays decorated with many Biblical motifs. This was made as a limited edition of 250 sets, of which 170 have already been sold. There is also a trade edition.

Matt led us in a discussion of the Binding of Isaac and then shared David Moss' scroll which was made into a Houston day school mural depicting the dramatic story.

Next, we studied a portion of the Purim Megillah and divided into small groups. Using David's techniques, each group designed a mural and we all enjoyed the creative process. 

The two large groups exchanged places and we entered David Moss' studio. David shared his personal journey, describing how he became a Jewish "folk artist". After meeting with a scribe for ten minutes, David knew that he wanted to breathe new life into the ancient art of making ketubot. He was like dry kindling waiting for the spark.

David would meet individually with couples and developed a process whereby he would personalize each ketuba. Often using intricate designs and exacting micrography, David's ketubot are stunning works of art. He showed us many of them, as well as the letters to the couples. Many of these have been published as magnificent books. 

David also was commissioned to create a unique Megillah and this process took three years. He was able to gain permission to use that work in order to publish a limited edition and subsequently a trade edition.

Being with David was an awe inspiring and uplifting experience.



Lunch in Machne Yehuda market was an experience. Each of us was given a "bite card" with six stalls and a map. We hunted for tastes and all left feeling well fed. Purim preparations were evident all around us. Not only aromatic hamentaschen (savory and sweet), but our ears were treated to a familiar Purim melody sung by a young man hawking "the best" strawberries.

Our last visit was the Artist's House. We had a private tour of their collection and exhibits, as well as the history of the Bezalel School from which Anat graduated.

After a much needed rest, we enjoyed a short walk to Darna, a Moroccan restaurant. This was both a culinary and visual delight! Some of us opted for a graffiti tour of Machane Yehuda. Another full and "eye opening" day!

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Purim Sameach!

March 24, 2016 text by Audrey Goldfarb, photos by Mark Fischer

Purim in Israel is a day of school vacation and NO TRAFFIC! We headed east toward the desert along the border that divided Jerusalem from '48 until '67. You no longer feel the divisions today, but tensions remain.

We arrived at the Inn of the Good Samaritan and met Lior, Natan's son, the archeologist instrumental in establishing this museum. Meryll set the tone by sharing a psalm that David may have written while hiding from King Saul. This exercise helped us imagine him being in the wilderness of the Judean Desert, hiding, lonely and terrified.

Why was this an important place? The site's biblical name was Ma'ale Addumim from the reddish color of the rocks. During King Herod's time it was a natural resting place in the road between Jerusalem and Jericho. The area was occupied from King Herod's time until the end of the Ottoman Empire.

Today it's an archeological site. The museum houses several reconstructed mosaic floors that were moved to the site due to unstable political conditions. Ninety-eight percent of the mosaics required reconstruction by hand using 1.7 million tiles. Islam, Judaism, Christianity and Samaritans each had their own mosaic floors, but often the same artisans were used.

Design motifs included vines, birds, vases, animals and the seven species of Israel (fig, olive, pomegranate, barley, wheat, date, and grape).

Next stop was Susan's House, a place where at risk teens find support and vocational art training. This is a project of Minneapolis Federation and JDC. Sixteen to eighteen year old participants are there by choice and commitment. Etti, a 21 year old alumna bravely shared her story of overcoming many obstacles. Her journey was a testament to her own personal strength and the power of Susan's House staff. We toured the workshop and purchased many of their art pieces.

We lunched in Talpiot. During our break Judy and Louise shopped for Purim costumes. One chose a red curly wig and the other a bright pink spiky wig. Can you guess which group member chose which wig?

Our next stop was the Temple Mount Sifting Project. Rabbi Davis shared Rabbi Larry Kushner's teaching which encouraged us to continue our journeys with an open heart and mind.

Frankie, an archeologist explained that during a Temple Mount construction project 400 dump trucks unloaded earth filled with artifacts into the Kidron Valley. Our job would be to carefully sift through this dirt one bucket full at a time and sort our findings into six categories: pottery shards, mosaics, metal, bones, glass and special stone. Toni found a sheep or goat mandible with teeth. Robyn hit the jackpot finding an ancient bronze coin possibly Roman or from the Second Temple period. We learned a new word, numismatist. This is a coin expert who will make the final identification.

We returned to the hotel where we prepared our costumes and rested. At 5:30 we boarded our bus to attend the Megillah reading at Natan's synagogue Kehilat Yaar Ramot. We were warmly welcomed by Rabbi Arne Bendor and the congregation. Natan introduced the mural created by his nephew artist, Aithan Shapira. This tryptic of trees native to Israel, olive, almond and pomegranate was made lovingly in memory of his grandparents.

Rabbi Davis led the congregation in Maariv. We enjoyed the Meggila reading as well as the congregant's costumes. Toni ably assumed the role of event photographer.

We returned to the hotel for dinner well before the kitchen was due to close. After Birkat HaMazon, Rabbi Davis left us with a teaching about Purim, likening it to a double sided coin which presents two faces, a king who can sentence the Jews to death and then saves them, and Queen Esther who hid the fact that she was Jewish. We are finding many hidden blessings here in Israel.

A few of us went on to party. The rest of us said good night and went to our rooms.

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New Beginnings

Friday, March 25, 2016
written by Robyn Awend, photographs by Josh Awend 

Our day began with a visit to Yvel, a last minute add to the itinerary. After an impressive 3D introductory film about the company we were greeted by Daniel Israel, the new US marketing representative for the company. Daniel, a charismatic individual, shared his moving story of immigration from Ethiopia to Israel when he was 5 during Operation Moses in 1984/5, a year long journey with many  struggles and losses. "I was surprised to see white Jews when we arrived," laughed Daniel with his ear to ear grin. Through his difficult childhood Daniel stayed strong and became an IDF soldier; paratrooper, sniper and eventually captain. He found his way to Yvel through his desire to give back and help the future of the Ethiopian community. 

Yvel, a creation of Issac and Orna Levy, celebrated its 30 year anniversary.  Yvel employs a mosaic of cultures and supports 122  families - 90% of the workers are from 23 countries. Yvel (Levy spelled backwards), is among the most celebrated and recognized high end jewelry companies in the world winning many prestigious awards and honors. A special part of Yvel is a new initiative, Megemeria (meaning Genesis or new beginning in Ethiopian). It is a business within a business. The purpose of Megermeria is to give back. It is a jewelry school for immigrants over the age of 35 who are unemployed and have no formal training. It also includes people with disabilities. Megemeria employs 21 people for yearly courses in jewelry making to help them master a skill that they will have for life. In addition, Megemeria offers classes in subjects such as history, finance and language to ensure that when people graduate they will have the skills and expertise needed for success and to be contributing members of society. They receive a scholarship and stipend and at the end of the course, each student creates his or her own brand of jewelry. Isaac, also an immigrant at a young age, wanted to give the same opportunity to others for new beginnings. 

After an exciting and informative tour of the design studios, they opened their beautiful showroom special for us (on Purim) to browse, shop, sip cappuccinos and taste the wine from their cellar. Many of us took part in all of these offerings! We ended our visit with a l'chaim and group photo with Daniel, who we all fell in love with.

Thankfully, Daniel, the story of Megemeria and their beautiful jewelry will be coming to Minneapolis this fall as part of collaboration between the Sabes JCC and the Israel Center of the Minneapolis Jewish Federation.

From there, we headed to Modiin, "The City of the Future" and the hometown of the Maccabees. Our first stop was lunch at Caffit overlooking the impressive city. Our lengthy farmers table was filled with one delicious dish after the next. A few of the favorites were the fried cauliflower and a salad that was a culinary work of art in itself (greens, cucumbers, tomatoes, mushrooms, walnuts, peanuts, almonds, sunflower seeds, feta cheese, homemade bread crumbs, topped with crunchy sweet potato strings). YUM! During lunch, we met with Meryll's cousin Giora who was one of the first families to move to Modiin. He shared with us his experience in Modiin over the past 20 years and how the city as developed in that time.  We also met Gila Miller, art teacher at Yachad in Modiin. She is doing amazing work in the school system to broaden the curriculum as well as to offer additional lessons for special education students. She shared with us the quote from the famous art philosopher Herbert Read, "There is no art without society and no society without art." Words that resonated. 

Dessert was served. Delectable warm mini chocolate and cream cups, homemade muffins, coffee and green tea. During dessert we met architect Yvan Lang from Modiin, specializing in sustainable 'green' architecture. He shared with us the architectural history of Modiin. In 1988 it was decided that there needed to be another city added to the landscape, as Jerusalem and Tel Aviv were becoming too crowded. Moshe Safdie, the most famous Israel architect, was responsible for Modiin's design. In 1996 the first families moved to Modiin. 20 years 

later, its population is nearly 100,000 people. Modiin is the community between Jerusalem and Tel Aviv located at the edge of the green line. It is a city that started from nothing, which is a difficult endeavor. We learned that many of the original concepts were changed and things did not always work out as originally planned. One example: originally there were no stop lights, then they had to be added several years later due to the rapid growth in the city's population and commuters who need to work outside of Modiin. Currently, the city is not considered a "real city" because it is still a bedroom community. Today, Modiin is a desired place to live. It is becoming quite expensive and highly populated. These are some of the issues they are facing today. 

We were able to get some beautiful views of Modiin after lunch. We spotted almond bushes, date trees, pomegranate trees, zatar bushes and sabras emerging from the cactus. From there we visited Beit Omanoot (Artists' House) in Modiin, where we were greeted by local artist Alejanda Okret & curator and artist Gabi Yair. The structure is dual purpose with its main function serving as a shelter in times of need, however this white walled space is home to the local artists' community, with rotating exhibits of varying media. Because the walls are made with protection in mind, they are hard to nail into, making this a challenge to hang work. The walls are filled with large holes (similar to a submarine) for ventilation. It's a visual reminder of its original purpose.

We then headed back to the hotel to rest and get ready for Shabbat. 

Several people from our group went to visit family in Jerusalem while the rest of us headed to the Kotel. Rabbi Davis found the perfect spot for our group to daven (pray) in the egalitarian section of the Wall. He lead us in prayer and in dance, we inserted notes in the Wall, we were surrounded by other groups praying and dancing around us with such pride and emotion. The air was consumed with Jewishness. It was a feeling that permeated us all. We visited the traditional area of the Kotel for additional prayers, men with men, women with women. Together, we slowly wove our way back through the the old city, the Jaffa Gate and back to our hotel for Shabbat dinner surrounded by Jews from all sects and geographic areas. We ended our evening on the balcony singing, studying and reflecting about our day -- talking about the important of place and power of ones dream(s) in life. 

Purim Evening 

After dinner, several of us went "into the night" to experience the Purim night life in Jerusalem. We found ourselves on Ben Yehudah Street in a sea of Purim costumes, characters and personalities; dancing, schmoozing, and of course partying! Anat took us to a nearby cafe, just off the beaten path, known as a local spot, to grab a drink and be witness to all that was taking place around us. Josh paid a local 5 shekels to take a photo with his Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle costume head. Such a bargain! I was dressed as Wonder Woman, not to be confused with Gal Gadot, the new Israeli actress staring as Wonder Woman. However, I did get stopped several times by Israelis, who did a double take.  Just as the evening was beginning to rev up, we began winding down. We passed through the sea of lively Purim goers again, taking note of as many costumes and moments as we could on our way out of Ben Yehudah street, and on every street corner back to our hotel. 

Shabbat: Lifting Our Eyes Up

Photo by Susan Weinberg

March 26, 2016 by Meryll Page,

Shalom Aleichem—Welcome to the Shabbat angels, welcome to a different rhythm, a day of reflection, a day of extending our hands to each other rather than a day of creating. As the sun set near Robinson’s Arch in the walled city, we gathered to welcome Shabbat together. For me, our t’filot (prayers), our song, our dance renewed my spirit. In the background we heard Shabbat melodies echoing from youth groups. As the sky began to darken, birds circled above.  Perhaps they, too, were enjoying the scene of so many who come to this place to let their souls soar.

Photo by Josh Awend

For some of us, the Maariv we chanted together brought us to tears with its beauty.Connected to each other, to our own longings, and to this place—Jerusalem--Shabbat entered us. Walking back through the Jewish Quarter in the Old City I felt safe and protected by the walls, the group and the soft amber glow cast by the buildings onto the twisted paths we walked.

Although the mood was broken by the uproarious crowds of families and groups at the hotel dinner, once we regrouped on the terrace after dinner to study together and chant Birkat haMazon, the feeling of a very unique Shabbat returned.  For me it was captured by the idea of ascent—our spirits rising even as we studied about the olot (burnt offerings) and the Songs of Ascent.

The beautiful walk to Shira Hadashah on Shabbat morning, following the park pathway with fragrant purple wisteria hanging from the arbor. set the tone for our experience at Shira Hadashah.  It is aptly named Shira Hadasha, a new song. With full voice, the congregation sang their way through the morning. To be with an orthodox congregation where both men and women led services, read Torah, and shared a d’var Torah was inconceivable 20 years ago.  There was much to celebrate this Shabbat in the congregation as a couple named their newborn daughter. Listening to the couple weave the story of their new daughter’s name to the parasha and to the congregation heightened the intensity. Even those who didn’t understand the Hebrew words, understood the emotion of the moment.

By study time after lunch we were all talking about the community we have built with each other and how it has lifted us beyond any individual experience we could have had. As we moved into Shabbat afternoon, we each found our own way to enjoy even a rainy day in Jerusalem. 

Gathering again at Havdalah, we sang the Shabbat out as darkness fell over the city just as we had sung to welcome Shabbat.  We wished Robyn and Josh—tzaitkem b’shalom—may they leave in peace- as they travel home to their three children.

We can now close our eyes and see our Shabbat experience in our mind’s eye again and again.